The world of royal fashion is rich, intricate, and steeped in centuries of history and cultural significance. For empresses and imperial concubines, the clothing they wore was more than just a means of protection or adornment. These garments were imbued with deep symbolism, reflecting their status, power, and roles within the royal court. From the majestic robes of the Chinese empress to the ornate hanboks of Korean royalty, each piece of clothing told a unique story about its wearer and the imperial world they inhabited.
This article explores the traditional clothing of empresses and concubines, examining the history, significance, and evolution of these garments in various royal courts, with a special focus on the clothing worn by empresses and concubines in China, Japan, and Korea.
The Historical Context of Royal Clothing
Clothing has always played an essential role in distinguishing social classes, and nowhere was this more evident than in royal courts. In ancient China, Korea, and Japan, empresses and concubines wore garments that were not only luxurious but also carefully designed to reflect their rank and position within the royal hierarchy. These outfits were often made of the finest materials, including silk, brocade, and velvet, and were adorned with intricate embroidery, precious stones, and elaborate decorations. They were a visible representation of the wearer’s status, and each detail had significance, from the color of the fabric to the choice of accessories.
In China, the attire of the empress and concubines evolved over the dynastic periods, reflecting changes in both the political landscape and cultural norms. Similarly, the clothing of Japanese and Korean royal women transformed over time, influenced by both internal trends and external factors, such as foreign trade and political alliances.
The Empress of China: Regal Robes and Symbolic Fabrics
The clothing of the Chinese empress was a visual display of her authority, power, and divine status. During the imperial era, the empress wore garments that reflected the hierarchy of the royal court, with distinct differences between the clothing worn by the empress, the empress dowager, and the concubines. The empress was the highest-ranking woman in the court and her attire was designed to distinguish her from the other women, often through the use of elaborate embroidery, symbolic motifs, and the finest materials.
The Dragon Robe (Longpao)
One of the most iconic garments worn by the Chinese empress was the longpao (dragon robe). The longpao was a highly ornate, richly embroidered robe worn by the emperor and empress, symbolizing imperial power and divine rule. The robe was usually made from the finest silk and embroidered with dragon motifs, which were symbols of imperial authority. The longpao typically featured a golden dragon with five claws, representing the emperor’s supreme status, and the empress’s robe might include a dragon with four claws. The color of the robe was also of great significance. While the emperor’s robe was often yellow or gold, the empress’s attire was frequently red or purple, colors that were associated with both power and auspiciousness.
In addition to the longpao, the empress often wore a headdress known as the huanghou guan, a gold crown adorned with jewels, pearls, and silk ribbons. This headdress symbolized her status as the supreme consort of the emperor, and its elaborate design communicated the wealth and prestige of the imperial family.
The Phoenix Robe (Fenghuang Pao)
Another iconic garment worn by Chinese empresses was the fenghuang pao, or Phoenix Robe. The fenghuang (phoenix) is a symbol of the empress in Chinese culture, representing grace, beauty, and virtue. The robe was typically adorned with phoenix motifs, embroidered in gold thread and often embellished with precious gemstones. The fenghuang pao was often worn for ceremonial occasions, such as imperial weddings, royal processions, and public appearances, as it was a garment that showcased the empress’s royal status.
Unlike the dragon robe, which was worn by the emperor and empress alike, the fenghuang pao was specifically for the empress and her high-ranking concubines. It was made from fine silk and often featured intricate designs and patterns, including dragons, flowers, and birds, symbolizing the harmony between heaven and earth.
The Role of Color and Material in Imperial Clothing
In imperial China, the color and material of a royal garment were not just a matter of personal preference—they were deeply symbolic. The emperor and empress wore robes made of the finest silk, often dyed using natural methods that produced vivid, lasting colors. Gold, red, and purple were colors reserved for the emperor and empress, while other members of the royal family and court might wear more subdued colors, such as blue or green.
The use of silk was also highly significant. As a luxury fabric, silk symbolized wealth and power. The intricate patterns woven into the fabric represented a combination of cultural, spiritual, and political symbols. For example, the dragon motif was a representation of the emperor’s rule over the earth, while the phoenix symbolized the empress’s role as a nurturing and protective force within the royal family.
Traditional Clothing of Japanese Empresses and Imperial Women
Japanese royal clothing, like its Chinese counterpart, was elaborate and symbolic. The attire worn by Japanese empresses and imperial women varied throughout the centuries, with distinct styles developing during the Heian period (794–1185) and continuing to evolve in the subsequent eras.
The Junihitoe: A Royal Ensemble
The junihitoe (twelve-layered ceremonial kimono) is one of the most famous garments associated with the Japanese empress and imperial women. This ceremonial kimono consists of twelve layers of silk robes, each layer representing a specific symbol of the royal family’s authority, grace, and beauty. The junihitoe was worn during important state ceremonies, including the enthronement of the emperor and other grand imperial events.
The layers of the junihitoe are carefully arranged, with each layer representing a different symbolic meaning. The outermost layer is typically a bright, colorful robe, while the inner layers are made of finer, lighter silks. The colors of the kimono are chosen with great care, and certain hues, such as red, gold, and purple, are reserved for the highest-ranking members of the royal family.
The clothing is completed with a koshimaki (a waistcloth) and a obijime (decorative cord), both of which further add to the complexity and beauty of the attire. The junihitoe symbolizes the empress’s role as a representative of divine authority and purity, aligning with the Shinto belief that the emperor and his family are descendants of the sun goddess Amaterasu.
The Role of Kimono in Japanese Royalty
In addition to the junihitoe, Japanese imperial women wore various types of kimono for everyday life and informal occasions. These garments were usually made of silk and decorated with floral patterns, symbols, and images that held significance in Japanese culture. The kimono was a versatile garment that could be adapted to fit different seasons and occasions, with certain colors and patterns reserved for specific times of the year.
Traditional Clothing of Korean Empresses and Concubines
Korean royal clothing, particularly that worn by empresses and concubines, shares similarities with both Chinese and Japanese styles, but also incorporates unique cultural elements that distinguish it as distinctly Korean. During the Joseon Dynasty (1392–1897), the attire of royal women was particularly elaborate, often showcasing rich colors and intricate designs.
The Goryeo and Joseon Hanbok
The hanbok is the traditional Korean garment worn by women, including empresses and concubines. The hanbok consists of a jeogori (a jacket or top) and chima (a skirt), and for royal women, it was often made from the finest silk and brocade. The colors of the hanbok were carefully chosen, with certain colors representing different seasons or ceremonial occasions.
For empresses and royal concubines, the hanbok was richly adorned with symbols such as the dragon, the phoenix, and other motifs symbolizing imperial power and grace. The hanbok’s design was symbolic of the balance of nature, with the curved lines of the jacket representing harmony and the flowing skirt symbolizing the earth.
The Significance of Accessories
Korean royal women often complemented their hanbok with a variety of accessories, including elaborate headdresses, norigae (decorative pendants), and embroidered shoes. The most significant accessory worn by empresses was the gache, a traditional headdress made of gold, jade, and precious stones. The gache symbolized the empress’s authority and divine status, and its elaborate design marked her as the highest-ranking woman in the court.
Conclusion: The Timeless Elegance of Royal Clothing
The traditional clothing of empresses and concubines represents more than just royal fashion; it is a visual expression of power, status, and cultural identity. Whether it is the intricate dragon robes of China, the majestic junihitoe of Japan, or the elegant hanbok of Korea, these garments tell the story of an era where royalty was defined not only by birthright but also by the symbolic importance of their attire.
Today, the legacy of these royal garments lives on, inspiring fashion designers and cultural institutions worldwide. As a reflection of the rich history and cultural heritage of Asia’s royal courts, the clothing worn by empresses and concubines remains a symbol of enduring beauty, sophistication, and authority.
